How do I even begin to describe India…. other than I loved it!! I know I have said this a lot but it is definitely tied for first place for my favorite place I've been too besides South Africa. They were just two completely different experiences and I loved them both for what they were. India was a true cultural submersion that pushed me as far out of my comfort zone as I have ever been. South Africa was beautiful but very Westernized and felt a little like home. This blog post will never do India justice. I am finding it extremely difficult to explain this intricate, diverse, impoverished, and amazing country. I cannot wait to get back to the States to be able to explain in person what I witnessed in India.
Day 1 Monday March 12, 2012: We arrived in Cochin, India! It was really cool arriving into port because we went slowly down a river to get to our dock and we got to see a lot of people fishing early in the morning along the riverbanks. The type of fishing nets they use are bizarre looking and I'm not really sure how they work but they are the staple of Cochin. Once we reached the dock everyone was really excited to get off the ship and finally step foot in India. Unfortunately the immigration process took forever and instead of getting off the ship at 8:00 am we did not get to leave until 11:30 am. I went out with my friends Destinee and Sydney. We walked outside on the gangway and were greeted by a dozen Indian's playing Indian drums and performing Indian dances. Women put the bindi on our foreheads and we walked towards the rickshaws. We were, as usual, bombarded with plenty of drivers wanting us to take their mode of transportation. We chose a slightly chubby, shorter man who seemed nice. He loved taking pictures of us pretending to drive his rickshaw. The rickshaws were SO cool. Way better than taxis and you got to experience India a little but closer than you would if you rode in a taxi. He said he would take us around for the morning. We agreed, giving in to being spontaneous. He started playing American music and we all sang along. He told us he was a singer and showed us videos on his cell phone of him performing. He was actually pretty good! He stopped at a large billboard and pointed out a picture on it, it indeed was our rickshaw driver. Who knew we wound pick a famous Indian rickshaw driver to take us around Cochin for the morning? He brought us to a flower shop and ran inside to pick up necklaces made from some of the best smelling flowers for the three of us. It was very sweet. He then took us to a typical Indian laundry facility. It was located outdoors and consisted of cement stalls where people were smacking their clothes against cement slabs to get the access water out of them. There were clothes hung on strings for about a mile. I asked how people could find their clothes and how people know they wouldn't get stolen. The rickshaw driver just laughed and said it wasn't a concern for them. He then took us to see different building, temples, and markets. We stopped at one store and went it. I was in awe of all the beautiful things in the store and I wanted everything I saw! One of the salesmen seemed to be following me and watching what I touched. He commented, "You have good taste" which I automatically knew it was probably one of the most expensive items in the store. Mom I blame you for this ha! I really connected the with the salesman and he told me all about his wife and family back home and how it was his uncle's store and he would come for six months to work and go home for a month then come back to work. We bonded on the topic of being homesick. I told him I would come back on the last day to buy some of his scarves. I could tell he wanted be to buy them then because he did not trust I would come back before our ship left. I promised him I would and we left the store. I had to get back to the ship to make my FDP to the SOS Children's Village. When we arrived there I was surprised at the property we stepped onto. It was very well kept and seemed clean. The children all ran towards us and introduced themselves as soon as we entered the gate. I noticed the boys from the village tended to talk to the boys from Semester at Sea and the girls from the village tended to talk to the girls from Semester at Sea. I only had a couple of boys talk to me through out the day. This also happens in the United States as well. Sometimes boys feel more comfortable and feel they have more in common with older boys than girls. We were all given coconut water, which was interesting tasting, but nice of them to offer it to everyone. We then sat down for a video presentation about the SOS organization. I was sitting in the back so it was hard to hear with all the little kids gathering around us. The kids seemed to respect the few of the older men that I saw running the video. When I looked around I saw the older people were mostly women. After the video a little girl led me to her house. The gardens I walked through were beautiful and when I got to the house I was a little surprised by what I saw. I did not expect it to be as nice as it was. For some reason when I thought Indian orphanage, nice accommodations did not come to mind. It was a pleasant surprise to walk into a fairly large house that was extremely clean and had decorations on the walls. The "mom" of the house came out to say hello but she did not speak English. In class we talked about universal emotions and this was a perfect example of how body language and facial expressions means more than actual words. While this woman did not speak any English I could tell she was happy to see me by the huge smile on her face. When I smiled back at her, her smile got even bigger and she opened her arms to welcome me into her home. The "mom" is a woman volunteer that lives in the village for most of her life to help raise the orphaned children. There are about ten children in each house and there are fifteen houses in the village. One of the older girls living at the house came out from her room to help give me a tour of the house because she spoke English. After every room she showed me she would ask about my kitchen and my room at home, she seemed really interested in how I lived in the United States. I sat down with her for a while and talked to her about school. She was twenty years old and in college. Her favorite class is economics and she hoped to one day start a business of her own. She was a very nice, bright, and funny young woman. I realized because we were in Cochin it was more common for young girls to have the opportunity to attend school. Cochin, in contrast to other Indian states, has a thriving economy and many of the people living there have the opportunity to get an education and go on to be successful. In poorer Indian states girls are often pulled out of school at a very young age to help with the housework. While there were separate houses you could feel the sense of community and the strong bond between the children living in the village. The younger children looked up to the older children and listened to them when they were told to do something. All of the children were very respectful of their elders, but liked to have just as much fun as children you would see in the United States. Playing a game of soccer with the children was the highlight of my day at the village because even though these children were orphans they had such a carefree, lighthearted attitude while playing soccer. I went to the Torgorme Village in Ghana and I thought that the kids seemed very similar. I suppose it might be because they both come from lower socioeconomic statuses and collectivist communities. I enjoyed spending the day with the children from the SOS children's village more so than many children from the United States. The SOS children seemed to be less greedy, not entitled, and not interested in instant gratification, unlike upper and middle class U.S children tend to be. Although, if you went to a community in the United States with ethnic minorities of a collectivist culture, I believe the children would be very similar to the ones at the SOS children's village. While the SOS children's village seemed to be a very supportive and safe community, with nice accommodations, it made me extremely grateful for my family back in the United States and the support I get from my parents. These children do not have the opportunity to have relationships with their parents but the SOS children's village gives them the chance for a successful and prosperous life regardless of their past.
Day 2 Tuesday March 13, 2012: I woke up bright and early to eat a quick breakfast before doing some last minute packing and heading to the airport on my Agra and Varanasi trip! I was a little nervous about flying in India but the two hour and forty-five minute flight went by quick because I slept the whole time. Once we arrived in Delhi we got onto a bus and were given a city orientation. We got to visit a monument that seemed to be a commonplace for locals to visit in remembrance of the history of their country. The monument was engraved with names of men that have served the country and there were cauldrons with constant burning flames. This was the first taste I got of every Indian person wanting to take a picture with Bridget and I. I found out fro our guide that it is because we had light skin and especially light hair color. He said they think lighter skinned people are more beautiful and important so they want to be in pictures with us. I was not annoyed at all and found it flattering however, I started to notice that a lot of women would put white powder on their faces and all the billboards seemed to have either white people on them or extremely light skinned Indians (which I had yet to see for myself…everyone that I saw with my own eyes had dark skin). It was sad to me that there was such a want for lighter skin and it was associated with being wealthier and more prestigious. It made me appreciate the United States because while I think there is an unnatural standard of beauty, I think the United Stated embraces all ethnicities and racial backgrounds when it comes to beauty. If you flip through a magazine you see a large amount of diversity in the color of peoples skin, which I did not see in any other country. Once the city tour was over we arrived at our hotel, The Royal Plaza. It was a really beautiful hotel and I quickly showered and had the most amazing Indian cuisine! After showering we went up to ask the concierge what we should do that night. He offered to take us up to the rooftop and we excitedly agreed. Once we reached the rooftop we saw the beautiful view of Delhi at night. We stayed up on the roof for a while taking in the quietness of where we were standing and it finally hit me that I was in India. Sometimes it is hard to grasp that I am visiting countries I have only read about in books or seen on the news. I finally get to experience these countries first-hand and it will randomly hit me at different points of the voyage. Each time it hits me I get a wave of gratefulness, eagerness to learn, and an exciting feeling about exploring the different countries.
Day 3 Wednesday March 14, 2012: We woke up at 4:30 in the morning, had an amazing breakfast, and headed to the train station to get to Agra. The train ride was about two hours and we were served yet another breakfast. Bridget and I had the amazing pleasure of sitting next to an Indian gentleman. I could tell he wanted to start a conversation for a while but seemed nervous to do so. We were eating our breakfast and he asked us if we liked it. We then dove into a conversation for the rest of the train ride. He was a very educated textile businessman. He was on a business trip and was on his way back home and was very excited to see his family. He was very curious about American politics, he loved Obama (as did every single Indian person we met), wanted to hear our opinion about India, and wanted to tell us how much he loved India. He was very insightful, easy to talk to, and genuinely nice. When we got off at our stop in Agra we said our goodbyes but I will never forget him. When we headed to our buses we saw little kids running around asking for food or money. It was straight out of the movie "Slum dog Millionaire" for those that have seen it (if you haven't I highly recommend it because it is spot on). I will NEVER forget this image as it is forever burned into my mind. There was this little boy of about four holding a baby in his arms in hopes of getting more money. The baby wasn't moving or making any noise, which was really disturbing. We tried to give them leftover fruit from the train but there were so many of them. Our guide told us these orphans either have no parents or run away from home and go to the train stations or airports in hopes of getting money or a job on the train. We had yet another breakfast at a really nice hotel, which felt a little strange after seeing all of the orphaned kids starving. This day was filled with transportation to different sites in Agra. We first visited the Abandoned City, which was awesome! I wish I could renovate it because it is a beautiful architectural site. We then visited the Red Fort in Agra, which was my favorite because I could literally go back in time and picture the emperor having lavish parties in the huge palace he built for himself. We then went to the marble shop that still makes pieces for the Taj Mahal to keep it restored and looking like it used too. I had no idea what a lengthy and intricate process it was to make designs in marble using the tiniest pieces of precious stones. I wanted to buy everything in the store because it was so beautiful, and also very expensive. So, I left the store knowing one day when I can afford to buy a marble tabletop I will go back there! And last but definitely not least we got to go to the Taj Mahal!! It was the most breathtaking building I have EVER seen in my life. The whole thing is made up of white marble with intricate designs and colors etched into the surface. It is completely symmetrical and even touching the walls of the Taj Mahal made me feel a part of a very cool past. I hate to admit that I did not know the Taj Mahal was a tomb. Going inside the Taj Mahal I saw the two tombs inside and thought how crazy it was how old the people were buried inside, and how my tombstone will be nothing in comparisons to this monument built for the dead inside. I noticed something a little disturbing. They had different entrances for high-ticket holder (aka White people) and Indian people. Indian people had to wait in a longer line to even get into the Taj Mahal and had to enter the actual building separately as well. A family asked to take a picture with Bridget and I, when all of the sudden a guard blew her whistle and said no we were not allowed to. It scared Bridget and I, and we were confused as to what the big deal was. I still don't know why they didn't want the family to take pictures with us. The sun started setting behind one of the adjacent temples and it was peaceful and beautiful to watch the sunset at the Taj Mahal in India. We headed back to the train station where Bridget and I experienced a whole different train ride on the way back. We were stuck next to three Indian men. I can only describe them as the definition of "pigs". They ate so much food, they were so loud and obnoxious, and they kept staring at Bridget and I to the point where we felt extremely uncomfortable. Clearly they were talking about us and I assume it wasn't nice or appropriate by the way they were looking at us. We tried to ignore them until one of them did the weirdest thing. He "dropped" his sprite bottle so it rolled by my foot. I picked it up to hand it back to him and he said "no drink it, it's for you". I said no thank you and handed it back to him and him and his friends just laughed and he kept trying to hand it back to me. Who thinks it's ok to hand a half drunken sprite with food grease all over it to girls sitting next to you on a train? I cannot describe how disgusted by this man I was. When he was eating his dinner, I have never seen someone indulge so repulsively on food. This is not me being rude or judgmental. If you were there you would have thought the same things as Bridget and I. I was happy when the train stopped and we got off to go back to our hotel. I took a wonderful shower and fell asleep very quickly in anticipation of an early morning!
Day 4 Thursday March 15, 2012: I woke up early and a few of us from our group went around Delhi to do some shopping the local markets. Since we got there right when the stores were starting to open we seemed to notice how well they were bargaining with us. It all made sense when one of the shop owners said that many people believed the first customer in the store was sent from God, and if he was able to sell something to you then he would have luck for the rest of the day. So, needless to say we got some great deals! We met up with our group for a delicious lunch and then headed to the airport to go to Varanasi. Once we got out of the airport to walk to our buses we were approached by a ton of little kids that were dirty and clearly orphaned. This was something I needed to get used to because there wasn't a single moment I wasn't being asked for money by a little kid, mother holding her baby, people with extreme deformities and diseases, and old beggars. Even writing about it makes me sad thinking of how I had to say "No, sorry" and push past them. I remember when I signed up for this trip in September, I googled Varanasi and thought it looked really cool so I decided to go for it. I cannot explain what an injustice Google pictures are to Varanasi. It is the most spiritual and intense place filled with poverty but extreme religious convictions and rituals that I have ever seen. We went to the Ganges (holy) River after the sunset and witnessed a religious ceremony performed by Shamans on the bank of the River. A little Indian boy befriended Bridget and I and followed us around for the majority of the night telling us about school and his family. He told us to follow him so he could show us something. I am not going to lie, I really did not want to get separated from our group and follow this random little boy on the dark banks of this creepy, holy river. But when in India, right? So I reluctantly agreed and we walked for about ten minutes further away from familiar people and more towards the people of Varanasi that were sitting by the river listening to the holy ceremony. We were headed towards what seemed like a bonfire. As we got closer the boy told me to hide my camera and don't take any pictures. He also told us not to say anything. He explained to us that the fires we were approaching were burning bodies. I almost started running the other direction. He saw the terrified look on my face and kind of laughed. He said they put the dead bodies in the Ganges River then burn them. It is how they cremate bodies and there are about 200 bodies burned each day. I saw people mourning, as their loved ones were being pushed underwater and then burned to death. I have to say this might be the most bone-chilling experience's I have ever had. I wasn't scared of it anymore because that is their religious belief but I was scared by how religion was not a separate entity in these people's lives but religion was their life. It is very hard to explain what I felt when I was in Varanasi, but it was life changing.
Day 5 Friday March 16, 2012: We woke up extremely early in the morning to be able to make it to the Ganges River for sunrise. I have never seen a sunrise more beautiful. The colors of purple, orange, and a light blue combined were breathtaking and the fact that people come to the Ganges River from miles away every morning to bathe themselves (in the extremely and almost toxic water that I would never even put a finger in…while the River combined with the people and scenery is pretty, the actual water is disgusting and polluted) and sometimes sip the water. I kind of thought about how the water might be polluted with people's sins, but obviously it is not because of that. The Ganges River and Varanasi was the "true" India. Dirty, impoverished, decaying, full of social, political, and economic issues. It is not surprising for being the oldest living city in the world. It was such a stark contrast between Varanasi and Cochin. In Varanasi there was no such thing as an upper or middle class, no such thing as a good education, no such thing as a caste system because they are all "untouchables" left in an aged city to fend for themselves. We left the Ganges River and went to eat another delicious lunch before heading to the airport. After traveling one hour to the airport for the one hour and thirty minute flight from Varanasi to Delhi, then the two hour and forty five minute flight from Delhi to Cochin, then to the one hour bus ride back to the ship I was EXHAUSTED. I have never done that much intense traveling in my life. Even though I was exhausted, both mentally and physically I was felt so happy and grateful to have had the opportunity to experience everything I had in such a short amount of time. I got back to my room, threw all my clothes in my dirty hamper, showered, and quickly passed out.
Day 6 Saturday March 17 2012: I woke up exhausted but went out with my friends Natalie and Gianna. We explored Cochin for the day. We went to the Cochin spice market where I bought the most amazing Masala Chai tea. I'm so excited to drink it when I get home. We went around to a lot of different shops and bargained for some cool jewelry, scarves, and tapestries. I cannot even explain how much I wanted to buy everything I saw. I didn't realize Indian/bohemian designs were what I absolutely love. If I had a million dollars I would have bought everything inside of these stores, especially the jewelry and scarves. I loved how everything looked antique and beautiful with a bohemian twist. We then stopped to get tea at a restaurant called "The Teapot". It was one of the coolest places I have ever eaten at. It was very old and everything inside was antique. The food and drinks were really cheap. We ended up getting cold coffee, a chocolate milkshake (which wasn't an American milkshake), and masala tea. We also ordered a chocolate waffle dessert and Natalie ordered vegetable stew (randomly). Everything was delicious and we headed off the to actual restaurant we wanted to eat lunch at. It was called Dal Roti. I had the chicken koti which is an Indian dish comprised of a fried Indian bread/wrap with chicken and onions inside. It was DELICIOUS. For dessert I ordered the signature Indian dessert. I forget what it is called but it started with a "G"…. it was balls of fried something (tasted like a donut) and served in this syrup stuff. They were extremely sweet and extremely good. As we were leaving we took a picture with the owner because he looked like an Indian Santa Claus and was the cutest old man. After this we got back in the rickshaw and went to yoga! We ended up in this alleyway following the words yoga painted on light posts. We stumbled upon a yoga studio tucked away from the rest of the world. The oldest and tiniest man was sitting on a bare wooden floor and seemed in a deep meditation. We knocked on the door and when he opened his eyes to three girls in non-yoga attire he smiled. He invited us in and said his next lesson was at 4:00 pm but since we had to get back on the ship he would give us a mini lesson for free. It was a really cool experience doing yoga with a very spiritual Indian man with Natalie and Gianna that had to borrow pants from him because they were originally wearing skirts. This man bent me into crazy yoga positions I did not even know I was capable of. I saw him so some of the craziest and most flexible things I have ever seen. Every time he told me to do something that I thought I couldn't, he told me to breathe and think again. I ended up being able to do a lot of the positions I thought impossible only moments before. Our lesson quickly ended and we said goodbye to this man that I will never forget. We headed back to the ship in very good moods and I didn't rip my pants! Unlike Natalie and Gianna who ended up ripping the pants by doing some of the poses. As the rickshaw drove us back to the ship I was trying to take in every last person, smell (good or bad) and sight I could. When I finally got back on the ship after waiting in line for what seemed like forever, I was sad to leave the genuinely friendly people, amazing food, intense and inspiring spirituality, devastating poverty (especially seeing the abandoned children left to fend for themselves in the streets in India), beautiful sunrises, pleasantly surprising temperatures, and rich cultures.
India was heartbreakingly humbling and incredible.
Miss all of you so much!
Much love,
Alli
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